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第 82 课:Hawar Islands 哈瓦群岛-2

And actually, there are several dozen other humans who work and sleep on the main island: the staff of a small but comfortable hotel resort that the Bahrainis have recently developed, catering for locals and foreign visitors alike. 实际上,还有几十个人工作并居住在主岛上:一个小而舒适的旅游地宾馆的工作人员,这个宾馆是巴林人最近开发的,目的是满足当地和外国游客的需要。

Access to the resort is by speed-boat from the jetty at Dur, on the main island of Bahrain. It's only a 45-minute ride, yet one still gets the feeling of arriving somewhere tremendously remote. 有快艇从位于巴林主岛上的杜尔码头开出通往这个旅游地。从那里只需要45分钟便可到达这里,但是人们仍然会有到达一个非常遥远的地方的感觉。

The hotel and its large swimming pool, flanked by towering water-chutes, stand out incongruously against the natural backdrop. Beyond the resort's perimeter fence, army jeeps scud by. 宾馆和它大大的游泳池,游泳池边还有高高的滑水槽,与自然背景极不协调。旅游地围栅外,军用吉普车穿梭而过。

Bahraini families predominate among the guests, especially at weekends. Some appear totally Westernised, the youngsters in particular dressed in jeans and baseball caps. 旅游地的游客中巴林人居多,尤其到了周末。他们有些人看起来完全西化了,年轻人还穿着牛仔服,戴着棒球帽。

But there are also more traditional groups. The young wife who sat with her husband and two children at the table next to mine at lunch the other day was completely shrouded in an enveloping black robe. 但更多的则是传统人群。一天午餐时,一位年轻妻子和她丈夫及两个孩子一起坐在我旁边的一个桌子,她就完全包裹在一件黑色长袍里,

And as she was wearing sunglasses, one couldn't even see her eyes. She had to lift up the long black face-veil that hung from above her nose every time she wanted to transfer a forkful of food into her mouth. 人们甚至都看不到她的眼睛。每次她想要把一勺食物送到嘴里时,都要把从鼻子上方垂下的长长的黑色面纱撩起来。

I wondered how this modest Islamic lady would react to the Filipina woman who'd come out to Hawar that morning on the same speedboat as myself. A very glamourous woman, she was accompanied by an unusually plain teenage daughter. 我不知道这位温和的伊斯兰女士对那天与我同坐一艘快艇来到哈瓦的菲律宾妇女会有什么反应。那是一位非常有魅力的女性,有一个非常单纯的十几岁的女儿陪伴着她。

As for the mother, age had not withered her, and designer clothes -- including massive white platform shoes -- added to her look. She had enough luggage to sink the boat. 岁月在这位母亲脸上没有留下太多痕迹,身上穿的精心设计的服装以及有着厚厚的底子的白色鞋子——更为她添加了几分风采。她的行李多得要把快艇压沉。

Once installed in the hotel, she kept disappearing, only to re-emerge in yet another stunning outfit. After lunch, at the pool, the Bahraini family was again sitting near me, the husband and children in swimming costumes, but the wife still completely covered. 在宾馆安顿下她就不见了,而再次出现时又穿着炫目的外衣。吃完午餐,那一家巴林人还靠近我坐在游泳池边,丈夫和孩子穿着游泳衣,而妻子仍包裹得严严实实。

Then the Filipina arrived, swathed in a black fishnet robe, an attendant padding behind her with a pile of towels. Her hair was immaculate, and around her neck hung a splendid string of pearls. 后来那个菲律宾妇女来了,穿着鱼网似的黑色礼服,一位侍者在她身后递给她一撂毛巾。她有着完美的头发,颈上挂着一串精美的珍珠。

She peeled off the fishnet robe, to reveal a bathing costume that would have turned heads even in Rio de Janeiro, as it totally exposed her buttocks. I looked over to the family to watch their reaction, expecting some expression of outrage. 她脱下鱼网似的黑色礼服,露出的泳衣即使在里约热内卢也会让人侧目观看,因为泳衣露出了她整个臀部。我回头去看那一家人的反应,希望能看到一些愤怒的表情。

But instead, from deep within the black shroud of the wife, a gurgle of laughter emerged that turned into a torrent of mirth, echoed by seabirds passing overhead. 但是相反,从那位妻子黑色的外罩下面发出了咯咯的笑声,这笑声又引发了海潮水般的一片欢笑,引得头顶上空的鸟也跟着在笑。

Undeterred, the Filipina -- still in her pearls -- stepped gracefully into the water, as the Hawar Islands welcomed another exotic species into its midst.那位菲律宾妇女没有被吓着,她仍然戴着珍珠项链,优雅地迈进了水里,就像哈瓦群岛又迎来了一个物种。