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第 371 课:Appreciating Armani 魅力无限亚曼尼-2

There is a strong popular association between the words "Armani suit" and the attainment of, or at least the quest for, material success. 提到“亚曼尼西服”,不得不令人联想到他在服装界的卓越成就,和对成功的追求。

It is a fashion item whose designer possesses an extraordinary ability to create a harmonious blend of seemingly contradictory elements: traditional and modern, East and West, casual and elegant. 这句流行辞汇源于一位拥有超凡能力的设计师,他能把乍看之下相互矛盾的元素充分调和:传统与现代,东方与西方,通俗与高雅。

Giorgio Armani was born near Milan, Italy, in 1934. 乔治亚曼尼1934年出生于意大利米兰。

His earliest foray into the fashion world was helping introduce Italian consumers to foreign styles when he worked as a purchaser for a leading Milanese department store. 他首次接触时尚界,是为米兰一家著名的百货公司当销售员,向顾客介绍异国的服装风格。

With no formal training behind him, he brought out his first line in 1964 while working for Nino Cerutti, one of the top men's fashion houses. 之前从未受过任何专业训练的亚曼尼,在1964年为一家顶尖的男士时装品牌“尼诺塞洛提”工作时,画下了他设计生涯的处女作。

He later left to start his own firm, and his clothes began appearing under the Armani label in 1975. 后来他离职自己组建公司,他所设计的服饰,于1975年正式以“亚曼尼”之名问世。

The Armani line was at first noted for loose, smart-casual blazers that provided a refreshing alternative to both the stiff, formal suits and the sloppy, laid-back hippie style of the previous decade. 亚曼尼的设计最初以轻松、时髦又随意的上衣而著称,它开创了一种新颖的风格,摆脱了之前十年一直风行的两种样式:正式却死板的西装和过于随便的嬉皮风格。

Though they were aimed at men, Armani's fashions proved so popular among women that he soon began designing for them as well. 虽然起初亚曼尼的时装是专为男性设计的,结果发现它们也受到女性欢迎,于是不久后他也开始为女性设计。

The famous suits caught the mood of the power dressers of the prosperous 1980s, and a string of movie appearances by his designs, beginning with the wardrobe of Richard Gere in American Gigolo, enhanced his reputation to the point where he is now considered one of the undisputed icons of twentieth-century style. 这些出名的服饰到了繁荣的八十年代,开始引起了权威服装造型师的兴趣,从设计李察基尔在“美国舞男”里的全部戏服开始,亚曼尼设计的服装在一部又一部的电影中登场,他也因此更加声名大噪。现在他已成为举世公认、开创二十世纪风格的代表人物之一。